Jean Christophe Novelli, the chef, offers a guide to his home town of Arras in north eastern France.
Why Arras?
It’s a beautiful medieval town full of spectacular architecture and it’s also where one of the most influential figures of the French Revolution, Maximilien de Robespierre, is from. It played a central and tragic part in both world wars and many hundreds of thousands of men sacrificed their lives in the nearby battlefields of Vimy Ridge, the Somme and Cambrai. The climate is much like that of the UK, as it is in the north of France, but unlike some other places in France the welcome is warm and the people always have time for you. It’s also less than an hour away from Paris and only an hour from Calais.
Anything special I should pack?
A generous bag because the town is fantastic for shopping. There are three days of markets - selling everything from fresh fruit, vegetables and cheese to antiques, local couture and jewellery - with the biggest on Saturday in the city’s two main squares, the Place des Héros and Grand Place. There are also loads of specialist artisan stores selling locally made arts and crafts.
What do you miss most when you’re away?
The buildings, which are a mix of architectural styles including medieval, Spanish and Flemish. The cobbled old town is amazing and there are several buildings not to be missed, including the town hall (Place des Héros), the citadel (Boulevard du Général de Gaulle) and, the most extraordinary of all, Arras Cathedral (Rue des Teinturiers), which is immaculate and tells the story of the city’s history.
What’s the first thing you do when you return?
I love to go the Petit Place or the Grand Place, where there are a lot of little cafés serving beautiful coffee, patisseries, croissants or delicious tarte tropézienne. I love going there for a couple of hours to read my newspaper, have a coffee and to watch the world go by. I also like to swim, so I’ll usually spend some time at Piscine Georges Daullé (4 Rue Rouault).
And the best place to stay?
Hotel Carnot, which is close to the train station and only a short walk from the historic part of the city. Hotel de L’Univers is full of history and housed in a former Jesuit monastery.
Where would you meet friends for a drink?
La Féria (2 Rue de la Housse) is good for a quiet drink. For music and drinking into the early hours try Blues Devils (1 Rue de Paris).
The best place for lunch?
For traditional dishes, try the cosy but great value Le Petit Rat Porteur. For somewhere even cosier there’s Le Petit Theatre (7 Rue Petits Vieziers).
And for dinner?
For something a little more gourmet, La Coupole (26 Boulevard de Strasbourg) serves beautifully presented modern French cuisine in an intimate atmosphere, or for some high-class cuisine after a game of golf, L’Infini, at the Arras Golf Resort, offers good food and great views of the greens.
Where would you send a first-time visitor?
No visit to Arras is complete without a visit to the network of underground tunnels, which were built beneath the city during the First World War. The tunnels were used as shelters from the German bombardments and as secret passages to get to the front. It’s horrendous to imagine how those brave people lived in such terrible conditions and my heart goes out to those whose ancestors gave up their lives for the war.
What should I avoid?
There is nowhere that I would avoid in Arras. The surrounding battlefields might not be to everyone’s tastes but they’re a permanent reminder of the sacrifice that was made to help us retain our freedom.
Public transport or taxi?
Public transport is minimal and the taxi drivers are perfectly amicable, but the best thing about Arras is that it can be discovered on foot.
Manbag or moneybelt?
You won’t find knife crime in Arras like you might in London or Paris. There’s certainly no feeling of fear when you’re walking around.
What should I bring home?
Artisans have been producing exquisite porcelain in Arras since the 1770s; Au Bleu d’Arras has a great collection.
Anywhere that isn’t your kind of town?
My work takes me to cities all around the world and I can honestly say there is something interesting and positive about every place I have been to. I always try to look for the good in everything.
